Tuesday, June 26, 2012

A Quick Thought on Sunning


I have been really really happy. It’s lame to write about happiness and it is likely to infuriate the reader, so I don’t have that much to relate.  I had written about my last day in Sofia but it was too sad and chaotic.  That last morning was tough for me.  During the 8+ hours on the bus to Sozopol from Sofia, I wanted to go back to the States.  I was uncomfortable and thirsty. I was tired of moving and just thought about the end of summer: the plane ride heading to New York, driving to Ohio, looking for an apartment, unpacking, starting all over again.  But I got here at 6am and slept all day.  I took a shower and ate clams and drank rekia.  Ever since that first day I have been great. I decided not to compare this place to Patmos. I didn’t want to waste time thinking how this sea side peninsula was not like the Greek island. It feels so good feeling good again. 


But as for the title: I sun. I get darker. How could I not? How could an entire race be impervious to the sun?  We would be a super race if the sun did not make us hot and darken our skin.  It drives me nuts to explain the sun to people. And even if fairly intelligent people don’t think I get darker, can’t I still enjoy feeling the sun on my face. Who hates resting and listening to music on the beach?  And I have burned. It happened twice in winter when the snow and sun create a reflection. My friend, a Black female doctor says that in fact, I am foolish for not taking the sun so seriously. I should wear sun screen, I should limit my time.  I don’t do these things because there is a part of me that thinks I am super and a bit impervious to the sun. But not because I don’t get darker, because I do and I like it. The complexion I dream of is darker than anyone I know personally. It’s darker than Nicholas.  

A bit of what I left behind: chatting with Alex in the morning

My apartment: best apartment so far

Social Realism everywhere

My view

What I found at Sozopol: My Black Sea!

My rocky coast and low saline levels

Apollonia Pontica, my Greek settlement

I will take more pictures of the people here and other things. I can't get over the water

Part of some fortress

What was Ovid's problem?

Monday, June 18, 2012

Light Machine- Man from the Moon

I am providing the link to the video of the song Man from the Moon by the Bulgarian group Light Machine.  I want you to go to Youtube and "like it."  This has nothing to do with me. I am really embarrassed. But I am so incredibly proud of my neighbor Alex, a young guy who I foolishly thought was sort of full of shit. But that is my bias.  I just see college age students and immediately think their lazy and obnoxious. But now I wish I could have 20 Alex-es in my classroom.  It is such a professional looking video with crisp editing and great sound.  I am in awe.  Also I like Strati; and I am so flattered that he allowed me to be in this video. I know that he had all these preconceived ideas of what my presence would mean and I can't imagine that his vision was actually realized but he didn't edit me out. So, I want him and his band to become sensations all over the world. Please pass on the link to friends and family.  The least I can do is give the video a few more audience members from whoever reads this ridiculous blog.  Once more, it is not about me but about Alex and Strati!

Man from the Moon Video 


Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Globul Domination


This is perfect. I was romantizing this place too much.  I was caught up in cheap beer, the view from my balcony, and my very simple life here. It became impossible to extend my stay another year, although I thought maybe I could. I am so tired of being a student. So recently, the rain has stopped and now there is just heat.  My bedroom is upstairs and the once beloved sky windows have not just created a hotbox where I cannot get to sleep.  And then I went Globul..

When I bought my micro sim card for iPad internet, I paid it all upfront: 14 Leva a month for 10months. Then because I am foreigner I was told to pay 200 Leva which I could get back, when I cancelled my account. OK. When I went there to cancel and get it back they said that I would have to wait until the end of September and I would be paying the 2 months that I did not pay from out of my 200.  Then I have to cancel in person and receive the remaining cash in person.  This is not possible.  So can I cancel now and you take the money 28 Leva and give me the balance.  No, because the fee for early cancellation, even if I pay the two months is all my deposit no matter what.  What happens if I don’t cancel and just say forget it?  I am automatically enrolled in another year and they start taking that from my deposit. But my sim doesn’t work in any other country. I won’t be getting a service. What am I being charged for?  You are charged for not cancelling and even if the service is stopped by us, you still have our sim. This can be very bad because you will have debt in Bulgaria forever tied to your passport.  Can I cancel on-line? No. Can I cancel by phone? No.  So…?  You need to have a proxy who has a document that reads, Whitney Snead is letting this guy cancel for me.

I go to Julij and he says sure, he will be around in September but we need to go to notary for the official document.  We first go to Globul and he speaks in Bulgarian to the manager for some time.  They are arguing. She was the same woman who “helped” me but this is better.  So now it is September 5 when he must come and cancel my account and it turns out I can pay now the two months. And so if he presents this document then the money will now go onto my debit card.  Not cash in hand.  Can I give you my card info now and you put it in under my account? No. Can you give me something that says I am paid in full and am owed 200 Lev on September 5? No. Can I have something that says that we saw each other on this date and had a conversation? No.   

We go to a notary. And because I don’t know Bulgarian it is illegal to have the one who translates to me be the interested party.  I have to have one more bilingual person with me in order for Julij to cancel this account.  We go to 3 notaries and it is the same. Alex is ill but maybe on Friday he can do it.  I can’t even go to Globul and say is this document ok? If he comes back with it will there be a problem? 

I leave Sofia in 7 days and this may have been the snap out of it slap I needed.  I hate being taken. I hate when people say one thing and do another. I hate when it is made absolutely clear to me that I have no power.  I was so pissed off this morning about being a student, jumping through hoops for my stipend.  Begging like a child. And now it is evening and I begged like a consumer. Had Globul asked me for some chapters on Greek settlements on the Black Sea, I would have had it to give. But they ask for my time and commitment, my trust and patience.  This I don’t have. 

A few years back I was trying to find some inner peace.  I was/am too affected by exterior forces. I don’t know how to forgive.  And so I sent for some books to be delivered to Blegen from other UC libraries. And David, the librarian, asked what I was working on to get these crazy Zen meditation books.  I said I am working on some serenity! Yeah but you know what Lloyd Braun said, serenity now, insanity later.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

From Whit to Woo


I don't think that anyone should be forced to leave a country, where someone can say, I like your look can you be in a music video and it doesn't involve sex or nudity.  Honestly, if I were the Chair of a Classics Department, or a parent, or an apartment realtor, or a very spoiled 12 year old cat, I would do anything in my power to allow a person who is asked such a question to stay in that country.

My neighbor, Alex, is involved in all Queer media in the Balkans.  Since he has moved in, I have met all kinds of great people. Strati, a singer and songwriter, who reminds me very much of Rufus Wainwright asked if I would be in his music video, for a song.  It is basically people of all kinds listening to his song on huge headphones in a graffiti- strewn wall in a underpass near NDK.

Oh! I am finally getting it right. I could have stayed in Baltimore for 6 more months and I still wasn’t going to make it work out. I had to borrow money to leave the city and my parents came to pick me up with all my things as if I were some wayward runaway who fell in love with a fickle heartbreaker.  It was a mess; and I had had all these hopes for the city.  But here, I am getting it right. It took a bit; but I get it and I want to have some more please. I had so much fun being in this this video. And it doesn’t come from vanity. Really, I can’t take a good picture to save my life.  I am actually really nervous about seeing this video. I’m sure I was hideous! (Yes of course I will post the video and the song very very soon!)  Also, I don’t even imagine a different career. I already had my Emperor’s New Clothes moment while in Rome.  I never said I had a good voice. People just kept assuming I could sing and asking me to perform and I had a really cute haircut then. If I promise to finish my dissertation, couldn’t I stay here forever?

PS- I am getting over Doug Loves Movies.  I only really like Doug and Paul F. Tompkins and Scott Aukermann. But really enough of Graham Ellwood and I want Build a Title to come back.  Anyway I am now saying How Did This Get Made? And Dead Author’s Podcast are really super funny podcast.  And I am now in love with QI- which is a BBC quiz game with comedians.  You learn a whole bunch and British humor isn’t always Benny Hill. I watch it because I love David Mitchell from Peep Show and his own Soapbox video shorts.  When he is on QI it is EXCELLENT. When he is not on it is GREAT.  And some super kind person put all 9 seasons, 12 episodes per season on YouTube.  It is a bit visual, I miss some things while cleaning or cooking but they are great company. 


We all met up at NDK and then went to the location. NO RAIN!

Beer with the Lemon in is big here now. This is my kind of town!

And the day was just lovely

I'm sorry but I now think I am a great photographer who can take crazy artistic images.





My neighbor, Alex points. Strati, the singer with hat.

She was first.

The woman in black was the makeup artist.


Here we are, between takes, looking cool.

The little boy is in the video too, but he then stepped in dog poo and was done. No more filming, clean my shoe, take me home.  His moms are practically holding him down to take this photo. Of course I thought he was grand.
            

Friday, June 1, 2012

March 24: St. Cyril & Methodius, fathers of Cyrillic Alphabet


I am getting that same feeling of fear of a potential impending misfortune.  This means I am constantly distracted and preoccupied.  I will leave my iPad on the tram, my luggage on the metro.  I will put 100 Leva in a book to hold my place and then replace the book on the shelf of the National Library.  I’m gonna screw myself.  Somehow the Monday me will soon destroy the Tuesday me.  I recognize the feeling and one would think I could reason with myself that things are fineThis is change and transition. Everything you need to accomplish before you leave, you will.  Even if you break your leg, you will finish what is necessary.  Maybe last week’s earthquake and this week’s STILL aftershock compel me to think I have even less control than I already imagined.  Since the earthquake, it has rained every day: real rain with lightning and thunder.  Tangible, dampening proof that there are forces at work stronger, more powerful, more natural, and more relentless than I am. I can give up everything easily.


I have a new neighbor.  He arrived some days before the earthquake. I didn’t know.  His name is Alex.  He owns the apartment next door.  And we are the only people on the 6th floor.  He has yet to install the oven and sink and so after an introduction and a super helpful drive to Kaufland- a Bulgarian Walmart, we made dinner at my place and ate out on his deck with his friend, whose name I forget.  It was a nice evening.  It had rained earlier of course and now everything was quiet and calm. I wished I knew about Kaufland earlier.  I bought only a few things, but if this were January or better yet September, I would have lost my mind with shopping.  Now I know and I want to stay to do things again.  The day previous I went out with Julij and walked around a neighborhood that I had never seen before. I saw the Roman Wall at the end of a bazaar.  But Julij said it really only dates to the Ottoman period.  There was a red leather bag in shop window and yellow skirt that would look amazing once I get darker. I wanted to go back and shop when the store was open but I haven’t yet.  My time seems to be running out and I think I am trying to purchase the country to take it back with me. We also walked through the park of the National Palace of Culture, where Jam On It was held.  That seems so long ago. The images on the bridge were no longer Conzo’s.  The weather was warmer, if not drier.  I was different.


I have 20 days left in Sofia and then I go to Sozopol. Finally, I will be on the Black Sea. The blog will make sense, well the title at any rate.  I thought I was going to write about the Cyrillic alphabet and the various celebrations that took place.  But it was a combination of my preoccupation after the earthquake & the city's response.  Everything was slightly subdued and the weather was awful.  I woke up very late and so... Still, I wanted to note the day.  Like Baba Marta, I think I will celebrate it back in the States for the rest of my life.  Those brothers and St. George, of course, slayer of dragons and enemy of Diocletian are my new heroes. See... I told you only the title makes sense.  

Remember: These are the spray paint competition products of Jam On It.  They stay up all year,

NDK is the large building. Vitosha is the mountain.

Another view of NDK

More NDK park

These are the pictures that are now on the bridge.  They are works of Bulgarians

A picture of a picture of my favorite type of statuary

Another picture of a picture of 2 men looking at a political cartoon



A view from the bridge. Nicholas calls this "your lovely country" with a sarcastic tone. But the joke is on him, I think it is lovely 

The Roman-Ottoman wall

Alex is in white and grey striped. But his friend is also really nice and super funny. I just forgot his name.

It was super Bulgarian. I grilled the chicken and they made shopska salad. There was bread and rekia and Fanta lemon.

The church across the street.